I did this through Chat, but at one point the rep told me to plug in the new modem I suspect it did everything on its own from there. I still had the splitter on the line to lower the downstream levels a bit. I was still connected to my router. If all these solutions do not help, then you may need to replace the motherboard inside your device. Well, as usual, I was going to react on my impulses and fork over more money for a new modem. A solid light indicates the channel connection is acquired.
I'm actually debating whether to swap out my surfboard for a more friendly compatible linksys modem. This app removes the barriers to being informed about your Wi-Fi network and the devices connected to it Pairs well with… just about anything! This is what prompted my calls. I guess the question is why get rid of those reset buttons. If you see a section of cable or any connectors that are damaged, try replacing the section of cable. My ping skyrockets in game for a few secs and my friends can no longer hear me talking they just hear static or nothing. Your modem may not be receiving power.
So in short -- I should be getting 250 Mbps and I'm instead getting 15. It's frustrating when things don't operate the way you need them to, but I'm farily certain that my lack of knowledge is the real problem here. To achieve the 250 rate, you have to have a modem capable of 16 channels. On the Zoom, the downstream levels were between -2 and 0 dBmV, and the upstream was around 49-50 on each channel. Hopefully I'm putting all this in the right forum. It's amazing that I had to call tech support and tell them the solution to my problem. I saw that new firmware was downloaded.
Using either Chrome or Internet Explorer under Windows 7, I get directly into the configuration manager by going to. Who thought this was a good Idea. But he said that he thought he had gotten the right person, and so it appeared he had. Resetting the modem can still be done one of two ways: 1. Power reset the cable modem.
Some background: I signed up for Comcast about a year and a half ago with a I think 50 Mbps plan. If you don't find anything, you may need to request a tech visit and have them specifically check for a high ingress noise condition on your line. No clue if it was just me or it happens sometime but, I had similar issues one time and funny enough it ended up being the browser I was using. In hindsight, I'm thinking I should have gone with the linksys becuase it would have integrated much smoother with my linksys router. Even if there is no 250 bootfile, there is at least a 150 bootfile, surely if there is not an appropriate 250 bootfile the logical thing to do would be to provide him the next best option, and not the shittiest one.
As for solution and recommendations - Obtain a different model from your service provider with the features you require, or obtain an off the shelf WiFi-capable router from an electronics department. The others, on phone support? The item was also marked as new. I thought this block was suppose to be removed after the new firmware was installed? Any suggestions as to how I can explain this to them? Well, then it sounds like the ingress noise problem is outside of your unit and instead in the building or neighborhood then, making it Comcast's problem. All other product or service names are the property of their respective owners. I was feeling kind of put out by that whole conversation.
A solid light indicates the channel connection is acquired. I occasionally ask myself why I get my internet service from Comcast. I'm still trying to sort out the issue. I happen to be using firefox. The change of service department was already closed, so I was advised to call back today. I appreciate how helpful this community is.
Meaning from the cable drop street to your home, no splitters, extra short cables etc. After reading some of the posts on these forums, I sent a private message to a Comcast employee to ask about my problem. Since doing this the upstream power levels have consistently kept below 50 dBmV current signals attached. But my encounters with Comcast have largely been far from satisfactory. My ping skyrockets in game for a few secs and my friends can no longer hear me talking they just hear static or nothing.
He also told me that my sb6141, which is rated as one of the top cable modems out there, wasn't recommended for business class. At least now I know what to do, even if Comcast support doesn't. Starting roughly Feb of 2014 I started noticing connection problems. Other efforts: - replaced power strip with new surge protector just seemed like a good karma thing to do - Spoke to neighbors who also have Cox internet with a drop off the same pole. Connect the power cord to the Power port on the cable modem. Everything is up and running, however, I wanted to look at the configuration page of the modem, but was unable to access the page. I wasn't there when Cox was out, but they addressed the outside splitter issue and replaced the inside coax running from wall to splitter.